***Disclaimer*** It is best and we recommend having your skis adjusted and mounted by a professional technician at a ski shop. Your safety is important and comes first.
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Adjusting Salomon Bindings can be a simple task when done properly. Salomon designs and builds a variety of different bindings for a handful of different ski manufactures. Unlike Marker Bindings, Salomon bindings do not have a universal forward pressure adjustment. The forward pressure indicators will vary depending on which Salomon binding model you have. With such a wide spectrum of bindings, it's important to know exactly which model you have before attempting to make any adjustments.
Adjusting Salomon Bindings with a Z heel piece: Bindings that have this heel piece include the Salomon Z12, Z12 BBR, Z10, L9. You will also find this heel piece on Atomic FFG 14, FFG 12 and FFG 10 Bindings.
You want to start the adjustment process by setting the forward pressure to your specific boot. Take a flat head screwdriver and lift the flat metal tab in the rear of the heel piece. Once this tab is raised with the screwdriver lodged underneath, the heel piece will move bi-directionally on the track. You can now adjust the heel piece accordingly to your boot sole (move back for bigger boot, move forward for smaller boot).
Now this next part is extremely important! It doesn't mean the bindings are set properly just because your boot clicks into the binding. Most of the time your boot will click into the binding regardless. With the boot clicked in, you want the metal tab (the tab you initially raised to get the binding to move) to be in-between the inner and outer hash marks. If this tab is locked in place in-between those marks, then the forward pressure is set correctly. If the metal tab is resting inside the heel piece housing or hanging past the outside hash mark, then the forward pressure is either to tight or to loose.
**The boot must be clicked into the binding to determine forward pressure. The metal tab will sit on the outside of the hash marks when the boot is not clicked into the binding. The top two images below show correct forward pressure indication. The bottom two images show incorrect forward pressure settings.
Once the bindings forward pressure is set, you may now adjust your release settings or DIN. The release setting widows show the tension of the binding spring, which is measured by a number system. The higher the number the more pressure it takes to get the boot to release from the bindings (high number more likely to stay in your skis, low number more likely to eject from your skis). With the same flat head screwdriver, you can turn the settings up or down by turning the spring screw (demonstrated in images below).
Adjusting Salomon Bindings with a STH heel piece: Bindings that have this heel piece include the Salomon STH 16 Steel, STH 16, STH 12
Setting the forward pressure of a STH binding starts with a metal adjustment screw that is located on the rear of the heel piece. With a flathead screwdriver, you can turn the screw either direction to make the heel piece move forward and backwards on the bindings track. To properly set the forward pressure, you need to click-in the boot and have the adjustment screw sit flush with end of the bindings black track piece. When the screw is flush with the binding track, hash-marks on the metal screw will be showing and that means your forward pressure is good to go!
You DO NOT, I repeat you DO NOT want the screw flush with the bindings housing. If the screw is flush with the housing, the forward pressure is NOT set properly and needs to be reset.
**The boot must be clicked into the binding to determine forward pressure. The metal screw may sit flush with the housing when the boot is not clicked into the binding. The top two images below show correct forward pressure indication. The bottom two images show an incorrect forward pressure setting.
Adjusting the bindings release or DIN setting is extremely similar to other Salomon binding models. Insert a flat head screwdriver into the spring screw, located on the back of the heel piece and on the front of the toe piece. Use the numbered DIN indicator window to properly set your toe and heel pieces at your specified tension (demonstrated in images below).
Next, the STH binding requires a toe wing adjustment. There is a small adjustment screw located on the wing of the toe piece (the screw will be recessed into the plastic) and requires a small flat head screwdriver to make the adjustment. You want the bindings toe wings to just barely make contact with the ski boot shell. If the wings are not making contact with the boot or are too tight against the ski boot, then the binding will not operate properly.
The last adjustment on the Salomon STH binding is the toe height. The toe height directly affects the way the ski boot releases out of the bindings toe piece. This MUST be set properly! Start, by locating the adjustment screw located on the top of the toe piece. This screw will raise and lower the toe height, which will vary depending on your particular boot model. With the boot clicked-in, use a .50 mm thick AFD Height Adjustment Tool. This can be made of paper or plastic, but it needs to be .50 mm in thickness. This .50 mm tool should be able to slide out from under the boot with slight resistance. If you can't pull out the AFD tool, then the toe adjustment is to tight. If you can freely move the tool in-and-out from under the boot, then the toe adjustment is to loose.
**It's very important that the AFD tool slide out with slight resistance. The resistance is ensuring that the ski boot will properly release from the binding. The ski boot must be clicked into the binding to properly determine toe height.
I hate driving. In fact, I was sitting on my restricted licence for about five years and only got my full licence only one week before arriving in the Solomons.
Because the traffic here is so bad, after only seven months of being here, I have spent more hours driving in the Solomon Islands, than I have spent driving in my own home country. The traffic is so bad I once spent four hours trying to navigate the 10 km stretch of road from one side of town to the other. My driving experience has tripled. Quadrupled!
Does all that experience make me a better driver?
Pft. Most of the time I’m at a standstill waiting for the right stars to align before the traffic starts moving. And when it does start moving, it’s at an island speed of 10 km an hour. If anything, I have become a better judge of pothole depth.
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In any case, 2017 will go down in my life as a huge milestone: the year I got two licences in one year.
Here’s how you too, can become a qualified Solomon Islands drivers licence holder.
Note: If you have a full New Zealand Driver’s Licence, you can drive in Solomon Islands for four months of arriving without a Solomon Islands driver’s licence.
- Full Driver’s Licence
- SBD 103 or SBD 278 or SBD 438 (depending on the length of licence holding)
Step 1: Go to IRD
Go to the IRD office. Yes, the Inland Revenue Division; the place that does taxes. The building is on the seaside side of the town-ground roundabout with a blue fence and no signs for clarity. Get there early. Or not. The counter officially opens at 8 am, but no one will show up until 9 am.
Step 2: Find the right counter
There are several counters, all of which are clearly marked (for once). Figure out which line of people you should stand behind. Hint: It’s the counter that says “Drivers Licensing”.
Step 3: Present form
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When it’s finally your turn, present the form, tell the man at the counter that you have an overseas driver’s license and want a Solomon one. If you didn’t print and fill out the form beforehand, fill it out on the spot.
Step 4: Pay the fee
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Show the counter man your current and full licence, pose for your new photo, and pay the man the fee: SBD 103 for one year, SBD 278 for three years, SBD 438 for five years. Your licence will be issued within a minute. Check for spelling mistakes, they happen.
Next… How to licence a car.
Shelling out Shell Money
April 15, 2019